"Responsible" (sic) tourism

During my years living in Crested Butte, I had the privilege of learning firsthand about the tourist industry, from the host side of the coin.

While we all relied on tourists for our livelihood (such as it was), we also continually cringed at the perceived idiocy and disrespect we saw on display. The mountains were our church, and people who came to town didn't seem to show the proper respect. They stood gaping in the middle of the ski run (earning the fond nickname, gapers) or asked stupid questions, such as "where do they store the moguls in the summer?" This earned the other common nickname, tourons (tourist + moron = touron).

I didn't say we were particularly PC about things, but rather we were responding to a sense that many visitors didn't seem to share our sense of reverence for the community.

Today - not for the first time - I am the touron, trying to tread lightly through the nations of SE Asia. I am here to see and learn, embarrassing myself frequently as I do. But in the process, I am also trying to avoid offending or acting disrespectful. This is sometimes easier said than done.

Every morning around sunrise in Luang Prabang, the Buddhist monks perform almsrounds, ambling on a set route around town accepting offerings of food - rice mostly - from the local residents. I gather this functional ceremony has taken place for many years, feeding both the monks and the local karma. When in Luang Prabang, witnessing the almsrounds is one of the things to do.

And therein lies the rub. This religious ceremony is at risk of being over-run by the tourons, something I experienced this morning.

Arising around 6:30, I wandered out of our guesthouse to find local residents kneeling in the streets all around. A few blocks away, I could see a long string of orange, as the monks slowly walked closer, holding their growing pots of food.

Taking my position on a pile of bricks, I was not really sure what was appropriate. I wanted to capture the moment on my camera, but I also don't like taking pictures of people without first asking permission.

As I debated the situation in my head, a bus rolled up and 15 - 20 people of indeterminate falang (as we are referred to in Laos) origin piled out. Immediately, I felt like I was in the midst of a press event. Cameras were snapping, people were laughing and flashes were popping. All the while, the monks ambled past and the locals bowed in humility on the ground. It was just a tad bit surreal.

In two minutes it was over. The monks had passed and the falang piled back on the bus, headed for croissant and coffee (a big plus in a post-French colonial nation). And I was left wondering what happened.

Around town, there are signs explaining appropriate behavior for observation of the almsrounds. To me, this is a sign of need. The tourons come to see and learn, and in the process, change things.

In the end, I did snap one photo - from the hip, without flash - to capture the moment. But it left me wondering, exactly what is responsible tourism?