Thursday, February 01, 2007

Cambodia: The temples of Angkor

While Angkor Wat may be the best known temple outside Siem Reap, the reality is there are dozens of massive stone ruins littering the countryside on a scale and frequency unlike anywhere else in the world. As "they" might say, you can't swing a cat in Siem Reap without hitting an ancient temple.

All this makes the place an epic spot to visit.

Built around the 11th century, the temples are a testament to the strength and longevity of Khmer culture. As I looked around, I couldn't help wondering which of our modern buildings or monuments would still be around 1,000 years from now. Not bloody likely.

In a scale that would dwarf most buildings today, these temples are truly a sight to behold.

And behold them we did. Along with thousands of other tourists from around the world. Clearly, from the proliferation of double-decker tour buses and five-star hotels, the word is getting out about Angkor Wat, et al.

Yet these crowds don't really diminish the experience. One lovely benefit of a tort-free society is tourists are able to wander freely through these ancient sites, creating a sense of exploration, albeit with many new friends around.

One of the interesting things we learned from our fearless guide, San, is that as the Cambodian leadership changed, so too did the temples. For example, several temples built under the reign of a Buddhist king had the Buddhas chiseled out under the reign of his Hindu son. Today, the temples are rife with chisel marks - Another example of the benefits of religious fervor.

More recently, bullet holes in the stone pillars mark places where Khmer Rouge fought the Vietnamese - using the temples as fortresses. The history of these places are palpable.

If there was one favorite part for me, it was Ta Prohm. Made famous by Angelina Jolie (yes, her again), the temple was used in the filming of Tomb Raider. While I have not seen this epic tome, I am keeping my eyes open on the streets of Bangkok (and Phi Phi) for a pirated DVD.

Ta Prohm remains in the same state as many temples when they were "discovered" in the 19th century - mostly reclaimed by the surrounding forests. This blending of stone and tree gives the place an eerie feel. Almost like discovering it for yourself.

For anyone considering a trip to SE Asia, look into Siem Reap. It is an experience you won't soon forget.

1 comment:

Julie said...

When I was a kid - we'd spend weekends visiting shrines and temples all over SE Asia. My brother and I hated every minute of it (we were children, ok!) - and we coined the term "Shrining" to describe those trips. This takes me back!