A really high lake

At almost 13,000 feet above sea level, Lake Titicaca is the highest lake in the world, I think. In any case, it's really high. Shared between Peru and Bolivia, we spent the last few days exploring its waters and islands, to our great delight.

Our exploration began on the Peru side, in the slightly dumpy town of Puno. Curiously, the town doesn't really feature the lake at all. In fact, it would be possible to be completely ignorant you are sitting right next to a world-famous destination, since most of the town centers on a couple squares about a 1/2 mile up from the water. Of course, we knew why we were there, so we made our way to the shore and beyond.

Besides its elevation, one of the things that makes Titicaca unique is the collection of floating villages offshore of Puno. Yes, you read that correctly. These little towns are floating on large rafts made of reeds that grow in the shallow parts of the lake. Existing since Inca times, the islands really do float. Walking around town is a bit like walking on a waterbed, without all the randy connotations.

As a curious aside, it seems evolution has dealt the villagers an interesting adaptation: They all appear squat and rotund. Not exactly obese, but rather round. I'm guessing hundreds of years and many generations of living on small, floating islands have resulted in people comfortable sitting a lot, weaving baskets, houses, boats and property out of reeds.

After las islas flotando, as they are known in these parts, we headed off to Isla Taquile a couple hours away by our very slow boat. On this solid, landed island, we wandered over the hilltops, witnessing another ancient culture dating back from pre-Incan times.

Crossing over to Bolivia, Erin and I landed in Copacabana. Sadly, string bikinis and tanned Brazilians were nowhere to be seen. On the positive side, there were plentiful swan paddleboats for rent. Given the opportunity to navigate Titicaca's waters in a swan, how could we resist? Erin swooned as I laid on my marital charm with the sun setting over the lake's azure waters, cold pilsener in hand.

From our Copacabana base, we struck out for Isla del Sol, the lake's largest island. Visiting pre-Incan ruins along the way, we hiked along the islands ridgeline for a few hours traversing from North to South. Between the altitude and namesake sun, I managed to develop an interesting tan line through my baseball cap.

Now sitting comfortably in the La Paz Radisson (our first US chain hotel), I feel we have seen Lake Titicaca sufficiently. Ringed by snow mountains, sitting under constant sunshine, the clear waters are truly something special.